The Second to Last Word

Florence (Firenze) wakes up slowly around 4:30am.  The many vendors setting up their wooden kiosks.  Some of these vendors are all alone in “their” spot.  Other swarm to the local “desginated” shopping rows.  By about 45 minutes later most are set up and wait.  They either sip an espresso they have poured from a thermos or that they picked up at a local bar.  They sit, cross legged, bouncing the leg almost like a horse tail swatting flies. They smoke.

Around 6:30 or so the first few tourists start making their way around the city.  Jet lag or just full schedules make them get up early and wander.  Bars fill up fast between 6 and 7.  You see, people live here.  It’s not just a tourist zone, it is where people live and work.  At the same time the vespas and motorscooters start their day long murmurrings.  Zip…  Zap… Occassionally broken up by a emergency vehicle siren.  I cannot ever remember an emergency vehicle’s “eww-ahh, eww-ahh” PRIOR to seven in the morning, like it is some unwritten rule or something.

Firenze will actually wake up at 7am.  After 7am, the city is awake.  It is open for business and ready to thrill and aw and fill and move you.  If you have any sense, you will want to stay somewhere near city center.  Some place close to the Duomo.  See the Duomo is the city’s official alarm clock; actually it is The Bell Tower, but why split hairs. 

Ring…ring…  You stumble out of your comfortable bed.  The floor is cold but it’s perfect.  You slowly make your way to your window.  You unlock the inner window that opens toward you.  Then you unlatch the shutters that swing out and away from you.  Your eyes are still partially closed.  But the sounds of the city are waking you up.  You look down and see the Baptistry .  You look right and see the three front doors of the Duomo.  You see people laughing and sitting on the steps of S. Maria del Fiori.  You see a small group in front of the steps of the church but facing the Baptistry.  You can just make out the person in front with a small megaphone explaining “the door of Paradise”… You hear clopping of horses just underneath you.  In a few minutes Kelly or Luca will be knocking on your door with cafe or hot cocoa, some pastries, and a couple of hard boiled eggs. 

You are staying at Soggiorno Battistero.  The only place I stay in Firenze.  There is no better place.

Soggionrno Battistero defines centrally located.  You would literally have to sleep IN the church to be closer to the city center.  You are literally steps from the Duomo, the Campanille, and the Baptistry.  After you finish your cafe and pastries and have taken a quick shower and put on your comfortable shoes you are ready to explore!

As you leave Soggiorno Battistero you are tempted to look up to see your window.  You take a few steps out and look up.  Ah.  Home.  You can go either left or right.  Right leads you to the Duomo; left away from the Duomo.  The funny thing about the Duomo it is actually never completely out of sight.  It will sneak up on you between buildings or the sound of the Campanille will resonate throughout the city.  I like going left.  I make a left down Via Roma.  Two buildings down the Via Roma is Gilli.  Say what you will, but there is nothing like walking into this place.  Remember this picture?

Ruth Orkin made this “spot” of mine famous!  Times have not changed.  If you hang out long enough you will see an impromptu reenactment of this very scene. 

You are now in La Piazza Della Repubblica.  Now you can stay on Via Roma which will take you to the famous Ponte Vecchio (the only bridge that spans the Arno river that was spared by Hitler).  Or you can hang a quick left on Via degli Speziali and then a right on Via dei Calzaioli.  You will walk past OrsanMichel, don’t.  Stop in there and see this original center of the city.  It has served the city in many capacities over the centuries.  It is worth going in.  Staying on Via Dei Calzaioli turn around and you will see the Duomo.  Do a 180 and you are just a minute away from the Piazza Della Signoria.  This will look familiar to those who have seen either “Room with a View” or “Hannibal“.  I won’t give it away, but trust me.

You are only 5 minutes from Soggiorno Battistero.  5 minutes.  Seriously.   You are now 1 minute away from the Uffizi.  The most famous art museum in the world (okay there are others like the L’Ouver but this one is up there).  If you are like me, I hate waiting in lines.  So what are you supposed to do?  Ask Kelly!  If you plan on visiting the Uffizi you had better ask Kelly to book your tickets in advance (same time you book your room) if not you will be standing in that line.  You’ll see what I am saying once you get there.

If you walk through the corridor you will end up on the Arno.  Make a quick left at the river and walk toward the old bridge.  Ponte Vecchio is less than a 3 minute walk.  Does it get any better?

There are plenty of places to grab a bite to eat.  My favorite place is actually right across the Piazza from Soggiorno.  It is called “Pizza dell Duomo”.  Damn good pizza.  There are a few other places too. Let me know if you want specifics I will be more than happy to share!

Needless to say, you are never far from home when you stay at Soggiorno Battistero.

If you need any tips for your next trip to Italy let me know!

You have the last word…

ROME (AP): Italy’s Civil Protection and news reports say four cars have been involved in the partial collapse of a bridge in northern Italy and at least four people have been injured.

The incident occurred Thursday near Piacenza, 41 miles (66 kilometers) south of Milan. The cars were crossing the Po River when a pillar collapsed.

The ANSA news agency said one of the injured was in serious condition. The local Civil Protection said rescuers were rushing to the site.

Authorities have evacuated thousands of people in parts of northern Italy this week as a precaution after days of heavy rain swelled rivers and caused some flooding. It was not immediately clear if the bridge collapse was connected to the Po’s rising waters.